Often it’s not worth it, but you can try it out to see what capacity your ATV truly has. You’ll be paying a lot more money to get the rig moving slightly faster.
This process can be much more complicated and shouldn’t be attempted by a novice. In order to go faster, you actually need to completely remap the ECU (Engine Control Unit) to up the RPM capacity and allow for more horsepower. If you’re not riding a youth ATV, your rig probably doesn’t have too much of a speed limiter installed. This will help you to know where to look and how to adjust it. In general, you’ll need to look up your specific model to find out where exactly the speed limiter is located on your ATV. It did this for maybe 20 seconds - 1 minute, then it would be just fine for a while (no bog at full throttle), then after a while, it would start doing it. The process is the same for anything located on the throttle loosen the jam nut and adjust the stud inwards or outwards to shift the speed limit. When it did start to bog, I would let off the gas, go about half throttle (it did not bog at half throttle, only full throttle), then try going full throttle again and it would bog again. Other models will have the throttle stop located behind the left front tire. After your adjustment, you just need to tighten the jam nut back up and you’ll be moving quicker immediately. To adjust this, simply loosen the jam nut and adjust the screw inward to reduce speed, or outward to increase speed. Some models have the speed limiter on the throttle. These are the easier fixes that are actually designed to be adjusted as the rider begins to gain more confidence, not to mention to parents feeling more comfortable. This has a Mikuni carb and I am sure I read somewhere that they don't have a air/fuel mix screw - it is preset and been the cause of problems for other people.Many youth ATVs come with a speed limiter installed on the throttle. Thank you Frank, I did inspect the jets and could see through them properly which I could not before the ultrasonic bath. Lastly what made you think it was the carburetor in the first place? What pointed you in that direction ? Had the bike been sitting ? You may have to figure out a way to turn that air/fuel screw or make up a small angle screwdriver while the bike is running. And adjust from there either in or out, which ever way the bike runs better while the bike is running and the air cleaner is installed. Did you remember where the air/fuel screw was set at before you broke it down? If not set it at 2-1/4 turns out from a snug position. Use air to blow out all the orafaces. The float may be getting stuck and that may be your reason why fuel is not getting up into the carburetor. You may have to pull the carb off again and clean it out using a small piece of wire to get inside the jets. The ultrasound cleaner is great but will not get everything cleaned.
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